Insights into the Christian-Jewish Ä°stanbul
Istanbul’s old districts of Balat and Fener on the Golden Horn in the Ottoman period were Christian and Jewish quarters. Starting from the seat of the head of the Orthodox churches worldwide, to the best preserved Byzantine mosaics are impressive evidence of the Christian culture of the former Constantinople to see. The five to six walk leads you through one of the most historically interesting areas of Istanbul.
The tour begins on the banks of Golden Horn at the Fener Vapur Ä°skelesi, the ferry terminal in Fener, from where ferries run hourly Eminönü. The history of the original Greek district is still alive. You go from investors – there is also a conspicuous police station – into quarters inside and turn left on Sadrazam Ali Pasha Caddesi. Here lies right behind high walls of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, where since 1601 the head of the entire Orthodox Church is alive. While enjoying the Orthodox “Pope” within the Greek, Bulgarian, Serbian and Russian Orthodox churches is not the same as the authority for the Roman Catholics, but all recognize the Patriarch of Constantinople as the spiritual leader of. Since 1602 the Patriarchate resides here. A comprehensive restoration in the 18th Century, the building now face awarded. A wide staircase leads to the big three wings gate, which is closed – since just 1821, when the then Patriarch Grigorios V. revolution of the Greeks in Hellas supported and therefore was hanged here.
Because of the complex are not publicly accessible, please contact a few steps back in the Yıldırım Caddesi and then left into Vodina Caddesi, the main street of Fener. The Greeks of the quarter belonged to the wealthy families of the city, the Balkans and controlled trade as a translator and diplomats were active. Turn from the left into the Vodina Fener Kireçhanesi Sokak, which up to Galatasaray leads Secondary School boys. The huge brick building towers like a fortress over Fener and was formerly the principal of the institute İstanbul Greeks. Still in operation, it has only a few pupils.
Contact your school behind the right circle and the whole complex past the Mesnevihane Foundation in the courtyard of a small mosque. On the other side of the gymnasium, where it already goes back down, it happens the first inconspicuous Greek girls high school and then left hand at the ancient Byzantine church of Saint Mary of the Mongols over, since the times of Constantinople survived as a church has.
A few more steps you take to the Cimen Sokak, the downhill back to the Vodina leads. Turn right: On the left side you see unfortunately very rundown, former Greek magnificent mansions. Once left a lane open down to the shore, go to the shore road and meet here on a restored Byzantine building, which formerly belonged to the wall and into today at the initiative of a feminist group in Turkey, one woman library is housed. Only 200 meters further along the shore road, the iron-St Stephen’s Church, whose components 1871 in Vienna and poured over the Danube and the Black Sea to Istanbul were shipped. According to legend, the Sultan of the construction of the church under the condition have allowed that he had only one month. In truth he was a feared emergence of nationalism among the Bulgarians.
Please contact after the church turn left and now come slowly to the Balat into former Jewish quarter. The second parallel to the shore road is again the Vodina Caddesi. Follow her to Ayan Sokak, where you turn right. In this street you will meet successively on an ancient hamam, to Mehmet the Conqueror go back to a beautiful mosque Sinan, the Feruh Kethüda Camii, and directly beside one of the oldest Armenian churches in the city, the Surp-Hiresdagabad Church, originally a Byzantine construction.
Balat had in the late 15th Century, the Jews expelled from Spain established – in some houses on the bay is still the David Stern to recognize. Many of them are in the 50 years emigrated to Israel, others live scattered in the city. In Balat, there are hardly any Jewish families.
Left hand you over to the Dürriye Sokak Gevgili Sokak, where the oldest synagogue is Istanbul. Then it’s back to the Kürkçü ÇeÅŸme Sokak, the shopping street of the district, the hill hinaufführt. At halfway it goes right into the Pastırmacı Sokak, as a steep staircase leads up to the Pasha Hamamı Sokak ends. You see right on the open field Molla Askı Camii overlooking the Golden Horn and the surrounding district. Go about 1 km left to right the Kariye Camii Sokak Türbe turn. This street leads to a further swing to the left directly to the Chora Church, where the most beautiful Byzantine mosaics Istanbul to visit.
From the Chora Church is the Kariye Caddesi up to 1600 years old city wall. Here is a poor district, where some caution. A few hundred meters further along the right wall rises as part of the fortification of Tekfur Sarayı, the best-preserved parts of the former Byzantine Emperor’s palace. Under the Ottomans the plant served first as stabling for elephants and giraffes, and later as a secret pleasure house. Last were the sultans a new edition of the famous Ä°znik tiles burn.
On the pulse of the city
In BeyoÄŸlu, along Ä°stiklal Avenue, the pulse of today’s Istanbul. Once by the Genoese founded at the beginning of the 20th Century, nor the European district, meets here today youth of the city. The three-to four-hour walk begins at the Galata Tower.
The tower was built in 1348 has the top floor on a rotating outdoor gear, from which you have a wonderful view over the Golden Horn and the largest part of the old city. Follow the Tower Galip Dede from the Caddesi the hill. About halfway to İstiklal Avenue is the right Teutonia, a gray brick building, formerly the point of the German community in Istanbul and was still venue of the Goethe-Institut is. On the ground floor houses a gallery. A little further up the street, shortly before the Tünel Square, the bookseller Librairie de Pera, which is still rare to find old books. Directly opposite is the inconspicuous entrance to the Galata Mevlevihanesi, the dervish monastery of Galata. The monastery is now a museum, the old musical instruments and writings houses. The garden is a nice small cemetery.
Turn right, then you reach after a few steps to Tünel, the upper output of the underground railway, which starts later in Karaköy. The metro was built in 1875 is one of the oldest, but also shortest in the world. Before receiving end of the tram Tünel-Taksim, the look of the 19th Century as a tourist attraction by İstiklal bimmelt. Just opposite the entrance to the underground railway opens a passage in which one of the most beautiful Beyoğlu cafes, the K & V (daily from 9-22 clock opens € €), is located. From the cafe table, look in the windows of ARTrium, a gallery, which also carries beautiful antiques.
Through the passage it goes straight to Asmalı Mescit Sokak. On a few hundred meters short track you’ll find two more well-stocked antique Eren books and Otto Mania, but also some unusual cafes and small galleries. A little further left hand is in the Åžehbender Sokak the Babylon, one of the best addresses for pop, rock, jazz and other concerts, but also for off-theater scene and other events. Shortly after the Åžehbender Sokak passing the legendary artists and intellectuals pub Refik (Monday-Saturday from 21-1 opened clock) and then go back on the Asmalı Mescit left down the hill. Apply at the end of the alley to the right, then you stand in front of the once famous hotel district, the Pera Palas. The House has already glittering times and famous guests, but is still worth a visit.
From the Pera Palas is on the right MeÅŸrutiyet Caddesi continue on a large square along at the Italian Cultural Odakule gone up, an office tower, where a pedestrian passage to Ä°stiklal Avenue, the main artery BeyoÄŸlus arrived, one of the busiest centers in the city at all. Those who meet in Istanbul, will meet in one of the pubs and cafes in the side streets of Ä°stiklal who wants to go to the cinema, looks first of the films along Ä°stiklal, even discos and music are mostly here. The section before Odakule belongs to the quieter the streets. Go left, so you can see on the right side slightly behind the largest Catholic church Istanbul, the St. Anthony’s Church.
A little further opens the road to a small square in front of a huge wrought-iron gate. This is the Galatasaray Lisesi, the traditional French-Turkish elite high school. Before the gate gathered in the 90s every Saturday from the mothers disappeared – Kurds mostly victims of the war – too silent protest. Compared with the large gate is the entrance to Cicek Pasajı. This beautiful Art Nouveau Passage is filled with crowded restaurants, where every night it is highly ago. According to the passage, enters one at the other end of the Galantasarayalık Pazarı, the most beautiful fish, vegetable and fruit market in the city. The market is a feast for the eyes and worth a stroll, even if you do not want to buy. At the very beginning of the market is hidden on the right side, behind a large iron without any labeling (if necessary in a retail demand), UEC Horan, one of the most beautiful Armenian churches of Istanbul. Some branches also further steps to right a small alley with simple but good fish from restaurants. These pubs alley named Nevizade Sokak is the best place in BeyoÄŸlu, if for relatively little money good “MEZE”, ie the typical Ä°stanbul appetizers, and an acceptable fish under the open sky wants to eat.
At the end of the alley pubs it right back to Ä°stiklal Avenue. Then turn left and you’re in the middle of the hurly-burly of shopping and entertainment. From here until the Taksim Square ranks at the cinema pub, punctuated by chic boutiques and old shopping malls such as the Atlas Passage, where it pays to take a look hineinzuwerfen. Shortly before the Taksim Square you will see the building left of the French consulate, the right has a shield bearing the inscription Haci Baba the way to a rewarding lunch with traditional kitchen, where on the terrace of this good Turkish restaurant Walk to the end.
